Tag Archives: restaurant

Porter’s Fried Chicken (Maplewood)

I threw out a question to a couple of co-workers a few days ago.  I wanted to know if there were any good places to get fried chicken livers around the Brentwood area.  Instantly, their eyes lit up (they knew I was a bit of a foodie), and simultaneously exclaimed that Porter’s carried them and they have the best fried chicken around.  I definitely had to check this out, although, I was a bit skeptical.  I’ve had bad experiences before with what STL calls ‘the best.’  This is a city that thinks the stink pit of El Maguey is some of the best Mexican you can get in the city, and that claim couldn’t be farther from the truth.  Following the restaurant reviewer’s code, I decided to make multiple trips at different times, trying dishes across the board.  Here’s what was cooking:

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On my first visit, I decided to go for what I was craving and found myself staring at a pound of chicken livers and a small side of potato salad.  A thin layer of breading coated each chunk of liver.  They were really nice with the crispy, peppery breading complementing the creamy livers quite well.  I grabbed a couple of tubs of hot sauce and proceeded to dunk away, finishing off the whole box.  Then, I dived into the potato salad, which was a sweet mustard blend with perfectly cooked potatoes and crisp touches of onion.  It wasn’t bad, but I wasn’t too keen on the sweetness of it.  I prefer a little more savory in my tuber salad.

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The second visit was a trip down the river with catfish.  I spotted the catfish nuggets on the menu last time I was in.  I’m a huge fan of fried fish and the taste of catfish reminds me of Friday night’s during lent back in Central Illinois.  Just like the livers, it was a huge portion.  This was served with a roll(pre-packaged and not worth discussing), cole slaw (which a yelper had raved about) and mashed potatoes with gravy.  The catfish chunks were some of the best I had ever had.  Unfortunately, about midway through my meal, I bit into a scale from improper cleaning and later a bone.  It turned me off a little, and I cautiously finished off the rest of the fish.  The slaw was up next for tasting as I was curious to see why this was considered someone’s favorite.  It was a finely chopped blend of carrots, onions, and cabbage that suffers from the same sweetness the potato salad did.  The mashed potatoes were, also, quite unremarkable, and appeared to be an instant mix covered in a pre-packaged gravy.  These sides were a little disappointing.

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Finally, I was on my third trip and this famous fried chicken was the obvious choice.  I got the 2 piece, taking it easy as this was my third trip that week with deep fried fare and my body was starting to feel it.  It came with the same sides as above, and since these were pretty unimpressive, I asked about getting another side.  I questioned my cashier on a few of the other sides and was told that they were all frozen goods and not made in house.  I wasn’t about to review something that I could do just as well at home, and stuck with the chicken getting a side of fries to fill me up.  I was served a wing and a thigh for my 2 pieces and each were blissfully greasy, moist, and crispy.  This was probably what I should have been eating the whole time and I can understand why people rave about it.  I’ll definitely be back to take a stab at some more, and possibly go for the spicy breading on my next visit.

That fried chicken was Porter’s saving grace.  It’s probably the only thing that I would go back for, getting just the chicken and letting them keep those shitty sides.  On the positive side, I never spent more than $7 on a meal there and was served a filling portion.  But, that’s probably because they save a whole bunch on frozen foods, pre-packaged sides, and sauces that come in packets.  There’s a bunch of flaws that Porter’s needs to deal with, however, the staff was nice, the prices  right, and the fried chicken delicious.  Porter’s will get my nod when it comes to chicken.  Just don’t expect too much out of the rest of the menu.

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Thanksgiving Special (Sauce on the Side)

Calzones, are a little nostalgic for me.  It brings me back to my dorm room college days as we drunkenly stumbled home, and on the way, would stop at a dirty little pizza place that specialized in calzones.  You could smell them from blocks away, guiding you to their tiny store which was carryout only.  And carry out we did.  Stumbling back to our dorm, we could smell the cheese and dough through the box and couldn’t wait to rip into these delicious pizza pockets.  So, when I heard that there was a spot downtown that just opened their doors, specializing in calzones, that little bit of nostalgia filled my stomach and I had to test it out.  Sauce on the Side has been doing business for about 3 months and I finally made my way in.  There was tons of buzz about this new adventure, and I couldn’t wait to give it a go.  Here’s what happened:

When I arrived, there was a large group of elite Yelpers crowded in the corner sampling wine, salad, and calzones.  This was a good sign if this group of elite foodies was plowing through downtown’s newest business adventure.  I made my way past the group and up to the counter to place my order.  I surveyed the small menu with inspired options and build-your-own-basics.  There was an off the menu special, called the Thanksgiving Dinner that I couldn’t pass up due to the proximity to the season.  I gave them my order, following it up with a control group of the most basic of calzones, the Fold.  They handed me a table marker, and I proceeded to find a spot to devour this meal.

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the cornucopia of calzones..,

My calzones were delivered to my table and steam poured out, filling the air with the aroma of sweet and savory dough.  These folded over pizza pocket were absolutely huge.  I plunged into the Fold first, testing out their basic blend of mozzarella and ricotta stuffed into a mass of dough covered in a garlic honey glaze.  A side of sweet marinara sat at the side of this giant Hot Pocket, ready to be dipped in.  I cut my first chunk of this calzone off, gathering plenty of cheese and dough.  After sinking this forkful into the marinara, I guided it into my mouth which was salivating in anticipation.  Best calzone ever!  This was a college drunken food, crafted to complete perfection.  The sweet marinara was phenomenal, and the mix of sweet and salty in the cheese blend was so basic and perfect.  The dough was soft and chewy, highlighted by the glaze that gave it a delicious finish.  It’s funny how the simplest things can be so FORKing delicious.

The Thanksgiving Dinner was next up for sampling, and had the misfortune of following a great first act.  I cut the calzone in half and a cornucopia of just about everything found on the my favorite holiday’s dinner table spilled out.  A medley of roasted turkey, cornbread stuffing, sweet potato, and cranberries were awaiting my judgement.  This specialty was served with a side of gravy, and I gathered my first bite, gravy and all.  I chewed the initial sample, discovering the soft textures of sweet potato and cornbread with chewy bits of tart dried cranberries.  All of the elements married well, but this specialty didn’t hold a candle to the Fold.  There was something missing from this Thanksgiving spread, and it would have been well served with some crunch added by pecans or walnuts.  It was good, but that elementary blend of mozzarella and ricotta dipped in sweet marinara trumped this inspired pizza pocket.

 

The Kitchen Sink (CWE)

When I first arrived in Saint Louis 6 years ago, the lack of diners was a little disappointing.  Sure, when I asked around everyone raved about Courtesy, and I even made trips to Tiffany’s, Eat-Rite, and The Buttery (shutters).  Most of these places are full of barely edible food at some of the cheapest prices out there.  The coffee was complete swill, the food frozen, and the only thing you could count on to be fresh were the eggs.  As time passed, a inspired diners have begun to sprout up in the Saint Louis area, using fresh ingredients and offering unique and inspired items on their menus.  I was rolling down Forest Park Pkwy. when I was surprised to see in the place of Wing Express and, more famously, Talayna’s, was a new concept.  The Kitchen sink sat, now, where a couple of failed adventures had once called home, attempting their version of cajun inspired diner fare.

I sat down with owner and chef Anthony Ellerson Jr., going over the menu asking him to give me the kitchen sink.  He obliged, literally, sending out a dish of the ultimate shrimp and grits, named the Kitchen Sink.  A large amount of grits covered perfectly prepared shrimp and was smothered in a golden gravy topped with spicy andouille sausage,fresh lump crab meat, and fried corn fritters.  Seeing something like this in a diner gave me hope for the rest of the menu and a few other dishes were brought to my table.  A magnificent Monte Cristo ($7) and a breakfast dish called The Fat Cat ($6).  The Monte Cristo was easily my favorite dish of the day as it’s the perfect mix of sweet and savory.  It came with strawberry habanero jam which I couldn’t resist dipping the sandwich in.  Leaving myself just enough room to sample The Fat Cat, I was ready to dig into the thick waffle, two eggs, sausage patties, and tater tots that lay before me.

I have very high hopes for this tiny diner and their dedication to fresh ingredients and locally made items.  It’s attention to details such as these that will, hopefully, drag people the fork out of those cookie cutter diners full of prepackaged items and into the cozy setting of The Kitchen Sink.

The Fat Cat – $6
Monte Cristo – $7 egg battered, served with a strawberry habanero jam
The Kitchen Sink – $9 Shrimp and Grits covered in mildly spiced gravy, topped w/lump crab, chives, and corn fritters.